Inside San Miguel...The BlogWelcome to Inside San Miguel... The Blog. This is my way of keeping you up to date. This blog will:
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Feb 2, 2010, Candelaria Has Sprung!It's official... sort of. Spring has sprung in San Miguel de Allende. Yes, it's that wonderful flowery time of year again--Candelaria. The annual flower, plant and garden sale has begun it's run in Juarez Park, marking the end of the cold, the arrival of our more normal sunshine and the unofficial beginning of spring. This year, entrances to the park have been garlanded in flowers, turned into springtime bowers. Thousands of flowering plants in every color of the arcoiris line the walkways, where dozens of vendors sell everything for the garden--pots large and small, bags of rich, fertile potting soil, trees, bedding plants. Young boys armed with wheelbarrows will happily follow you through the plant fair to load up your purchases and wheel them back to your car for a few pesos. Look for the plant fair to continue for about two weeks. Now is the time to stock up on all your gardening goodies--even if all you have is a window box or a tiny balcony in a rented apartment or a hotel room windowsill. Do your part to help keep San Miguel de Allende as flowerful and colorful as she is meant to be. Jan 27, 2010, Fantastic Lunch at Baile Cafe - San Miguel de AllendeWe had a fantastic lunch/dinner at Baile Cafe--behind the Arthur Murray Dance Studio on Hernandez Macias, next door to Vivoli restaurant. I had the Permalink -- click for full blog post "Fantastic Lunch at Baile Cafe - San Miguel de Allende" Jan 21, 2010, Authentic Mexican Capirotada RecipeHere's a traditional and authentic Capirotada Recipe for the Mexican bread pudidng dessert served during Lent... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Authentic Mexican Capirotada Recipe" Jan 15, 2010, What's the Weather in San Miguel de Allende?Find out more about the weather in San Miguel de Allende—which is just about perfect for most of the year... Permalink -- click for full blog post "What's the Weather in San Miguel de Allende?" Jan 15, 2010, Calendar of San Miguel Annual Events, Month by MonthThere's always something fun going on in San Miguel de Allende. The San Miguel annual events calendar rewards a visit at any time of year... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Calendar of San Miguel Annual Events, Month by Month" Jan 14, 2010, Atole Recipe--a Delicious Mexican Hot DrinkHere's an authentic atole recipe for the delicious and traditional Mexican hot drink made with cornstarch or masa. Yum... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Atole Recipe--a Delicious Mexican Hot Drink" Jan 14, 2010, February Events in San Miguel de AllendeAt the height of the tourist season, February events in San Miguel de Allende highlight the coming of spring and patriotic celebrations... Permalink -- click for full blog post "February Events in San Miguel de Allende" Jan 14, 2010, January Events in San Miguel de AllendeAs the year begins, the high season ramps up. In January, events in San Miguel de Allende happen one on top of another... Permalink -- click for full blog post "January Events in San Miguel de Allende" Jan 7, 2010, San Miguel shoes: The Original Combat Cocktail SandalsSan Miguel Shoes are the original "combat cocktail sandals" from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. Designed for walking on cobblestones, they're comfortable, durable, stabilizing and pretty. Permalink -- click for full blog post "San Miguel shoes: The Original Combat Cocktail Sandals" Jan 5, 2010, Toller Cranston in San Miguel de AllendeLong famous as the greatest men's figure skater of the 20th Century, Toller Cranston always defined himself first as "a painter who skates." Here's a look at his home, his life and his painting... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Toller Cranston in San Miguel de Allende" Dec 29, 2009, Cafe Iberico - A Gem in San Miguel de AllendeWe seek out, know, and much appreciate fine food. I've traveled throughout Spain and even lived in Barcelona for a time, so when we visited San Miguel Permalink -- click for full blog post "Cafe Iberico - A Gem in San Miguel de Allende" Dec 4, 2009, December Events in San Miguel de AllendeIt's the Christmas season, and December events in San Miguel de Allende sparkle with tinsel and colored lights, music and donkeys in the streets... Permalink -- click for full blog post "December Events in San Miguel de Allende" Dec 4, 2009, Christmas in San Miguel de AllendeHere's a calendar of official holiday events for Christmas in San Miguel de Allende, 2007... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Christmas in San Miguel de Allende" Dec 2, 2009, Spanish Tapas and Paella at Cafe Iberico-San Miguel de AllendeOn of the best restaurants in San Miguel de Allende, Cafe Iberico is located in Colonia San Antonio Norte (#20). A small, intimate cafe, it offers a Aug 26, 2009, Lucy to Present Her Vision for San Miguel de AllendeSan Miguel de Allende's new mayor-elect, Lucy Nunez, will be inaugurated as the town's first female mayor on October 10. Lucy, as everyone calls her, was unusually open to the foreign community during her recent mayoral campaign, soliciting their input and explaining her ideas for San Miguel's future. She was elected in a landslide victory over the PAN candidate with 65% of the vote. She belongs to no party, but was endorsed by three of San Miguel's four main political parties. This Sunday, August 30, she'll present her vision for San Miguel at the Unitarian Universalist meeting, 10:30 am at the Posada de la Aldea. She'll cover such issues as crime, development, the economy, health care and how she intends to involve ex-pats in her administration. There will also be an opportunity to ask her questions. Nunez earned degrees in communications in California and speaks excellent English. With her husband, she owns the local San Miguel radio station, XESQ, a cable TV station, and an advertising agency. Mayor-Elect Nunez is originally from Mexico City, has lived in San Miguel de Allende for 25 years and has two teenage daughters. Nunez' election is definitely a sign of change to come. Sunday's meeting can be a great opportunity to get a peek into San Miguel's immediate future and to give this dynamic woman your input on YOUR vision of San Miguel. Aug 17, 2009, This Video Captures the Essence of San Miguel de AllendeI've just come across another video about San Miguel de Allende. They seem to be thick as fleas right now on YouTube. But this one is far superior to most others I've seen. Produced by Ambassador John McDonald and Anitra Thorhaug, shot and edited by Alan Geoghegan, its human touch, lyrical videography, poetic voice-overs and loving view of our city really--and especially of her people--captures the essence of San Miguel de Allende for me. If you love San Miguel--or want to know her better--I know you'll enjoy it.
Jul 1, 2009, A Lovely Piece of Writing--San Miguel and Casita de las Flores
A couple of years ago, when I needed a place to stay in San Miguel just for a couple of days and I was on a budget, I discovered the Casita de las Flores. It was a charming experience. Francoise, the owner, has created a friendly family-like place that feels just a bit like a hostel for grown ups--but with your own room. There are two shared baths and one shared kitchen, plus a common patio garden with hammock, so meeting the other guests is inevitable and friendships flourish. It's the kind of place beloved more by true travelers than by mere tourists. Francoise has recently started a blog and it made me discover she is also a gifted writer. Click on the link below to read her story about moving to San Miguel de Allende, finding her property, and creating this pleasant home-away-from-home for travelers. Jun 20, 2009, El Jardin, San Miguel de Allende's HeartIn San Miguel de Allende, the central plaza is where everything happens. Read about El Jardin, San Miguel de Allende's heart... Permalink -- click for full blog post "El Jardin, San Miguel de Allende's Heart" Jun 2, 2009, At Last! Some Positive Ink for San Miguel de AllendeAll of Mexico has been taking a real beating in the media of late--what with narco gangs followed by the flu scare--and the results are not pretty. Tourism is seriously down all over Mexico, even in San Miguel. So it was a very pleasant surprise to see that Continental Airline's inflight magazine has a nicely upbeat piece about San Miguel in the May issue. The focus is on learning. The author took classes or indivual lessons in pottery, nicho making, Spanish, photography and cooking during her short stay in town. And she clearly loved her time here. She passes her enthusiasm on well, and, unlike so many articles about San Miguel de Allende, she gets the details right. (Well, she did call the Parroquia a cathedral, twice, which it is not; it's a parish church. But we'll forgive her that common mistake.) And I, for one, thank her for coming, thank her for telling the truth, and I hereby pass her article on to all of you to enjoy. Just click on the link below. May 25, 2009, New Restaurants in San Miguel de AllendeNew restaurants have been opening in San Miguel de Allende at an amazing rate. This page will keep you up to date on the newest and best restaurants in San Miguel... Permalink -- click for full blog post "New Restaurants in San Miguel de Allende" May 18, 2009, Bargains Abound Right Now in San Miguel de Allende
In conjunction with the San Miguel Department of Tourism, many hotels in SMA are offering special 2-nights-for-the-price-of-1 mid-week packages to lure tourists to town in this slow time. And the range of options is huge. For instance, at Guadiana Bed & Breakfast, you can now get a double room mid-week for two nights for about US$60. And at the high-end, the luxurious Orient Express Hotel Casa de Sierra Nevada will cost you around $US260 for two nights. That's a real bargain. There are 20 participating hotels on the Tourism Department's website, so you should have no trouble finding one that fits your budget and your style. For a complete list of participating properties, with prices and links to their websites, click on the link below. May 16, 2009, Help Bring The Amazing Race to MexicoTourism is enormously important to the economy of Mexico, and it's taken a really bad hit recently. First, all the blood-and-gore news about narco-violence and exaggerations of dangers to tourists had people afraid to cross the border. And then the H1N1 flu virus picked poor Mexico to break out into the open. People began staying home in droves. Mexico deserves a break, some positive images going out over the airwaves that will make people say. "Hey, let's go see that!" You can help that happen. The Discover Channel's mega-hit "The Amazing Race" is coming to Latin America for the next season, and the producers are asking the audience to choose which country they'll visit. Mexico, with its huge range of typography, climate, and peoples, is the perfect choice. As of this writing, Mexico has 42% of the vote to Colombia's 43%. That can change drastically very quickly. Please cast your vote and help Mexico show its stuff on next season's show. If you're not familiar with the show, you can see a video clip (in Spanish) at The Amazing Race. Then click on the link below to cast your vote. Please. Mexico needs your support. May 15, 2009, A Barbecue Bash for the Fourth of JulyIt's still a few weeks away, but you can start making plans now for a bang-up 4th of July in San Miguel de Allende. And for U.S. citizens feeling a bit homesick on our national holiday, what could be more "4th" than a good old barbeque? Vista Antigua, a gated community at the top of Independencia at the Libramiento, will be the host for the Mexico Invitational El Grande Cookoff. Teams of cooks will go head-to-head for points and trophies in several categories, including best brisket, ribs, sausage, "open" category (which is really wide open--anything that can be cooked on a grill or in a pit), Texas-style chili, beans and margaritas. Oh man, this is making me hungry just writing it! And while you're feeding your face with all that finger-licking stuff, you'll also be helping feed Mexican kids. The event is a benefit for Feed the Hungry and Patronato Pro Ninos, old-time charities in San Miguel that help thousands of Mexican kids every year. Several well-known San Miguel restaurants are expected to field teams of cooks, but anyone is welcome to enter. The variety of tastes and textures should be staggering...and very filling. Mark you calendar...and get the napkins ready. May 7, 2009, SMAtteringsNewsletter for experience-san-miguel-de-allende.com Permalink -- click for full blog post "SMAtterings" May 4, 2009, Bellas Artes in San Miguel de AllendeThe best art school in San Miguel de Allende is Bellas Artes, the Centro Cultural de Bellas Permalink -- click for full blog post "Bellas Artes in San Miguel de Allende" May 3, 2009, About Flu Paranoia and Economic Disaster--Here's a Great ReadI've written on this blog recently about the overblown paranoia and fear-mongering among the press concerning the recent outbreak of the H1N1 flu and its effect on Mexico. I've talked a bit about what it's doing to the economy and daily life of San Miguel de Allende. But I haven't done either of those things as well as Jan Baumgartner does in the article at the link below. The piece was written for OpEd.com and I really hope you'll go read it. It mirrors my own feeling exactly... and is brilliantly done. Thank you, Jan. Apr 29, 2009, A Taste of Italy at Cafe Vivoli--on a Budget
If you're in San Miguel right now--and lucky you if you are--and you like good Italian food (who doesn't?), here's an event you won't want to pass on. Tomorrow night, Thursday, April 30th, Cafe Vivoli is offering "A Taste of Italy." Come in between 5 and 7 pm, buy any drink for $50 pesos (~US$4) and indulge in a delicious complimentary buffet of Italian specialties. Part of the same chain as the famous Cafe Vivoli on Sunset Blvd. in West Hollywood, this place really knows Italian. Here's your chance take a virtual trip to Italy for a great price--and give Cafe Vivoli a try if you've never been there. I do recommend it. Cafe Vivoli is located at Hernandez Macias 66, on the east side of the street. For more info call (415) 152-0045 or email donato@vivolicafe.com Apr 28, 2009, Flu Updates - Who Are You Listening To?Among the spate of recent media reports in the U.S. and elsewhere about "swine" flu, many would have you believe that people throughout Mexico are dropping like flies from the coming "pandemic." Dozens dead, hundreds dead, the reports vary but all are alarming. Without minimizing the very real concern about the spread of the disease, I'd like to remind readers that not everything you read in the media, and certainly not everything printed on a blog or passed among friends, is true. I suppose it is human nature to exaggerate, especially when talking about something as dramatic as a potential pandemic. So I went to the World Health Organization website to see what they had to say about levels of infection and deaths. You can see the daily report at the link below, but to summarize: As of Tuesday, April 28th, the U.S. government had reported 64 laboratory confirmed human cases, with no deaths. Mexico had reported 26 confirmed human cases of infection including seven deaths. Other countries had reported a total of 15 cases with no deaths. Due to the lack of Mexican laboratories capable of detecting the virus, samples are being sent to the CDC in the U.S. for analysis. The numbers for Mexico will likely be somewhat higher when all lab tests come back. Compare these figures with the fact that approximately 36,000 people die in the U.S. every year from normal flu infections. We are all watching the news as these figures change daily. Schools all over the country are closed until May 6th, and the Mexico City government has ordered all restaurants and eating establishments in the city to close for dine-in customers. They may only serve take-out orders. But the country is not in total upheaval, as some press pundits would have you believe. Nor are people dying in the streets in every town and village. San Miguel de Allende is relatively unaffected at this point. We'll be watching the most reliable news sources we can find to help us all stay informed, so we can be concerned and vigilant, but not panic. The best advice: read reliable news sources, filter what you hear and read through a mask of common sense and then make your own judgments, uncolored by the unreasonable panic the fear-mongers seem to enjoy spreading. Apr 28, 2009, Flu Precautions Reach San Miguel de AllendeDespite the fact that as of Monday, April 27th, no cases of unusual flu have been reported in or near San Miguel de Allende, we are feeling the effects of the nationwide state of alert and precautions. Today, the Mexican government announced that ALL schools in the whole country, from kindergarten through university, will be closed until May 6th. The Biblioteca Publica in San Miguel has also closed for the same period. One mother in San Miguel reported that her teenage daughter was also told that the kids are to stay at home--not go into the centro or up to the mall. And she was given a LOT of homework to keep her busy. While certainly worrisome, the practical results of the school closing in terms of missed classes are not quite as drastic as they at first might sound. Students would have been off school from this coming Friday through next Tuesday anyway for the Labor Day holidays. Still, the move is proof that the government is taking this health threat very seriously. Apr 27, 2009, Best above all: Dos CasasWhere in San Miguel de Allende can you find the ambiance of an upscale New York restaurant complete with smoked mirrors and linen table service? Permalink -- click for full blog post "Best above all: Dos Casas" Apr 26, 2009, Guanajuato Health Officials "Alert but Not Alarmed" About Possible Spread of FluThe new outbreak of influenza in Mexico City has people in San Miguel de Allende rightfully concerned. But to date, there is no real cause to be alarmed. According to the state health secretariat, the state government has begun an intensive campaign to search out and detect possible centers of infection, particularly in schools and workplaces, but up until now there have been no school closings or suspensions of public events. The Secretary of Health for the state of Guanajuato, Jorge Armando Aguirre Torres, has announced that there has been NO evidence anywhere in the state of any cases of the swine or viral flu currently affecting Mexico City. In news reported today, Sunday, April 26th in El Correo newspaper, Aguirre goes on to say [translation mine], "We are keeping an exhaustive watch. We're not waiting until people arrive at health centers, but are watching schools and workplaces so that probable cases can be identified in an opportune manner. Because flu is seasonal, when we identify it quickly it can be cured. The important thing is to identify it quickly to save the lives of people affected." He added, "Even though in Guanajuato we have not registered a single case of the mutation of swine and avian flu, we must keep working to maintain that fact. It's a case of being on alert but not alarmed." [Emphasis mine] The State Committee on Health Safety met in extraordinary session this week to determine necessary measures to contain any possible outbreak in the state. After the meeting, they announced that the federal government is expected to send 10 thousand doses of flu vaccine to the state in the next few days. These will be administered to health workers, the population most vulnerable to possible contagion. The U.S. Consular Agent for San Miguel de Allende, Ed Clancy, also posted a "Warden Message" from the U.S. State Department about the outbreak this week, emphasizing that people should follow normal good health habits, including frequent hand-washing, avoiding close contact with sick people and staying home when you are ill. Alsos todat, the U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) updated a notice about H1N1 "swine" influenza and travel to Mexico. The notice does NOT recommend that people avoid travel to Mexico at this time and suggests precautions travelers and U.S. citizen residents in Mexico can take to reduce their risk of infection. The U.S. Embassy in Mexico City will post additional information about the outbreak on the embassy websiteit becomes available. Apr 26, 2009, San Miguel de Allende Heats Up and Slows Down--But Plays OnWe're coming into slow season in San Miguel de Allende. The winter visitors, like good snow-birds everywhere, have flown back north. The heat is building and folks are shopping at Mega and Elektra for floor fans to get through the few weeks of heat. A few restaurants are getting ready to close up shop for the month of May, a time for owners to take their vacations or use the hiatus to refresh and refurbish their premises. But San Miguel never goes completely to sleep anymore. There's still something going on all the time. And late April-early May is no exception. It's just easier to get tickets. Here's a quick look at some of what's coming up. Harold Pinter's dark play about passion and politics, Betrayal, is prepping to take the stage of the Teatro Santa Ana next week. It runs April 30-May 3. Check the theatre for curtain times. Tickets are $150 pesos. At the Atelier Flor Acosta, Fabrizio Viglioni will open an exhibit of photographs of Mexico City "DF" on Thursday, April 30 at 7 pm. Entitled Visiones DF-ectuosas Viglioni's array of stark photos capture the stories, the laughter and the misery, the trash, the dark night, and the absolute overpopulated immensity of the world's largest city. The gallery is located at Tata Nacho #8 in Colonia Guadalupe.
It's a program of extremely difficult music technically. Though written in the 1960s, most of the pieces by Carrillo had never been performed publicly until Jimena Gimenez premiered them in 2006. Tickets for the concerts are $150 pesos. Just more proof that San Miguel de Allende is a feast for culture hounds of any stripe at any time of the year. Come on down! Apr 25, 2009, About San Miguel de AllendeSome fast facts to answer your first questions about San Miguel de Allende—like where is San Miguel, what's the weather like, how do I get there, stuff you need to know.... Permalink -- click for full blog post "About San Miguel de Allende" Apr 21, 2009, Vacation in Mexico? Here's the Perfect Weekend VisitAre you planning a vacation in Mexico? Here's how to spend just 36 hours in San Miguel de Allende and have an unforgettable weekend... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Vacation in Mexico? Here's the Perfect Weekend Visit" Apr 14, 2009, U.S. Passport Deadline is LoomingFor more than a year now, there's been a lot of confusion about whether or not U.S. citizens need a passport to travel to Mexico. The answer was yes and no--depending on how you were planning to enter the country. After June 1st, there need be no more confusion. The answer, in all circumstances, will be YES. In another two months, travelers crossing the border by car will no longer be able to reenter the U.S. with just a birth certificate and photo ID. A passport will be required. You can get a passport application online at the U.S. Passport Office site. The huge clog-ups of last summer seem to have been mostly avoided this year, but if you're planning a trip to San Miguel de Allende (or anywhere else in Mexico) and are worried about getting a passport in time for your departure, there are a number of private expediting services that will speed the process dramatically for a fee. You can check one of them out at the link below. Apr 12, 2009, San Miguel de Allende as TV commercial Location
In mid-February, a film crew had the area in front of the Jardin in San Miguel de Allende closed off for a day or two while they shot a TV commerical for a new VW model called, I think, the CC. The commercial recently made its debut on YouTube.
Nice car. Nice commercial. Great setting! Apr 12, 2009, Childhood or Adult--the Magic of a Puppet Speaks to All in San Miguel de AllendeNext week, the esplanade in front of the Parroquia church of San Miguel de Allende will be wall-to-wall packed, from the east end to the west, from the Parroquia's iron fence to the Jardin wall, with kids of all ages--including some with gray hair. Some in this massive audience won't even understand the language of the show they are watching. But the voice of a puppet seems to have a language of its own, one that speaks to all ages and all cultures. Next Monday begins the 6th International Puppet Festival of San Miguel--El Festival Internacional de Titeres. And if past festivals are any guide, it will be a pure joy from beginning to end. Nine different puppet companies will travel to San Miguel from Spain and Jalisco, from Mexico City, Michoacan, Morelos, Queretaro and San Luis Potosi. Their puppets will range from simple "sock puppets" pulled over expressive hands to figures made of sticks and string to the elaborate and completely engaging detailed marionettes of Armando Ramirez and El Teatro La Luciernaga. The puppeteers, or titiriteros, cover the whole range of the art of puppetry and even enlarge it with their cutting-edge experimentation. There will be nine performances, running from April 13th through the 19th, in the Jardin, in the auditorium at Bellas Artes and at the Teatro Angela Peralta. And best of all, every one of them will be given free of charge. If you are in San Mgiuel de Allende next week, don't miss this charming, wacky, moving range of performances and the joy of watching the audiences young and old enjoy them too. As the festival's website says, "You are invited to embark on a voyage through time, on board the ship called 'imagination.'" For a complete schedule of performances, click on the Festival's link below. Apr 12, 2009, Lasting Memories... and Friends... of San Miguel de AllendeA charming story showed up in my email this morning and I wanted to share it with you. It's by travel writer/photographer Dennis Jones, and it appeared in the Vail Daily. He describes the purely joyful cacophony of San Miguel de Allende, a pure joy I have felt myself on many occasions. He writes about watching the procession of Our Lord of the Column enter into San Miguel, the piety of the people, the scent of the carpets of herbs. And he writes about the people. He writes. "I have never been to a place where I have made such fast friends. You could say there must be something in the water, except it's all purified.... Whereever I was, after a lecture, in a restaurant or sitting in the Jardin, I met people who were sincerely warm and open. Frequently, deep conversations developed leading to shared meals and more time together. Of all the memories, the people I met will be the most lasting. I couldn't have said it better myself. Do click on the link below to read the whole article. Apr 11, 2009, Subscribe to SMA tterings: What Matters in San Miguel-free newsletterSMAtterings is the newsletter about "What Matters in San Miguel de Allende." Subscribe for free here... Apr 9, 2009, Good Friday & Easter Church Services-in English-in San MiguelIf you're in San Miguel de Allende for Semana Santa--Holy Week--and would like to attend church services in English, there will be a special bilingual Good Friday service at Cristo, Roca Eterna at 12 noon on Good Friday. The church is right behind El Tunel car wash next to the cable company on Salida a Celaya. The Easter Sunday service there will be at 10:30am. For more English language church services in San Miguel, click on the link below. Apr 8, 2009, A Very Young Photographer
Charles Soberman is an American who spends half of each year in San Miguel de Allende. Last year, he decided to take Erik Jimenez, the 9 1/2-year-old son of his housekeeper, for a shopping outing. Erik was a shy boy, overweight, not doing well in school and with few friends. His self-esteem was non-existent. The two talked and shopped and Erik and Charles became friends. Charles wanted to give Erik something that was uniquely his, something his friends couldn't do, something that would boost his self-esteem. So he gave him a old digital camera, showed him how it worked and sent him off. As Erik returned with his first stiff, awkwardly posed photos, Charles began showing him how to make them better. Erik, it turned out, was a quick and avid learner. Fast forward a couple of months. Erik Jimenez, who will be 10 in July, is a photographer. He has a business card with his name and that precious title on it. And he takes wonderful pictures. This week, Charles Soberman and his wife, Linda, hosted the first exhibit of Erik's work. They presented 18 photographs; some 50 people came to admire them... and to buy them. Many photos were sold, and the money will go towards new photo equipment to feed Erik's growing proficiency.
"Tristeza" (Sadness) "My Grandparents Door" If you'd like to see more of this young man's excellent work, visit the link below. You can even buy one or more prints of his work for only $10 and feed a new and growing talent, a valuable sense of self worth, and a skill that may well become a profession. Apr 6, 2009, El Presidente en San Miguel de AllendeThe Jardin was a-hopping today as the new Casa Allende Museum, birthplace of the town's namesake and independence hero Ignacio Allende, was inaugurated after an extensive renovation. The museum is located right on the corner of the Jardin, facing Cuna de Allende (the very street name means "Allende's Cradle"). The big news buzzing around the square was that President Felipe Calderon himself was in town for the inauguration. The last time the president was in San Miguel was about two years ago, when he participated in the opening of the Hospital General. The Jardin today was positively crawling with soldiers and other security officers to guarantee the president's safety. And there were actually metal detectors set up in the Jardin. At least they didn't completely close down the center of town, as so often happens when an American president goes anywhere. The president met with several community leaders, both Mexican and foreign and gave a speech at the ceremony. He noted the recent naming of San Miguel as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, pointing out it's importance to the country. In his speech, he pointed out that Ignacio Allende was "born in this house, and from here, wrote one of the most beautiful pages of history." In discussing the War for Independence from Spain, he noted that there was clearly a "great talent" behind the design, organization and operation of the "conspiracy for independence. "That talent," he said, "was Allende." For me, the most ringing part of his speech was this passage, when he spoke about next year's bicentennial of Mexican independence: "Friends, 2010 will be a year of jubilation and happiness, in which the pride of being Mexican, the pride of our national history will beat with enormous force in every home, in every school, in every neighborhood, in every public plaza, and especially, this sentiment will beat and be expressed here, in San Miguel de Allende." I think this visit by Calderon is a testament to the growing importance of San Miguel de Allende on the national radar in Mexico. And as the bicentennial of Independence next year grows nearer, San Miguel, along with Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato and Queretaro will loom large on the collective Mexican consciousness as the fragua de independencia, the "forge of independence." It was a proud day to be in San Miguel. Apr 5, 2009, Walking the Streets of San Miguel--the Friday of Sorrows
I love wandering the streets in the evening and admiring all the dozens of beautiful altars people create in their homes, in public spaces and in the dozens of fountains in San Miguel de Allende. There are lovely altars everywhere, scattered throughout the town, but my favorite street is always Calle Barranca. Not only does it sport many altars, some small and charming, some enormous and awe-inspiring; it also brings out the crowds. The street becomes a lovely evening promenade as couples and families stroll along, admiring the ingenuity and piety of their neighbors. They run into friends, chat in the street, stop for the traditional drink or ice cream at some of the homes with the biggest altars. It's an odd combination of religious celebration and family party, and that makes it wholly Mexican. For a more complete discussion of Viernes de Dolores check out the link below. Tomorrow, Palm Sunday begins Holy Week proper in San Miguel--a highlight of the religious year, and a magical spectacle for spectators whether religious or pagan or something in between. I hope many of you are enjoying it. Permalink -- click for full blog post "Walking the Streets of San Miguel--the Friday of Sorrows" Mar 31, 2009, Woolis Kabaan - Mayan Name, Yucatan Food, Nice AmbianceWoolis Kaban is a brand-new restaurant in San Miguel de Allende(March, 2009). The name is Mayan, which means The World Goes 'Round, and the food is Permalink -- click for full blog post "Woolis Kabaan - Mayan Name, Yucatan Food, Nice Ambiance" Mar 29, 2009, Semana Santa in San Miguel... Here's How to Get the Most Out of It
One of the greatest experts I know on Holy Week in San Miguel de Allende is Charlotte Bell. Her beautiful photography book, Tears From the Crown of Thorns, is a loving and gorgeous depiction of the pageantry, pathos, and glowing moments of the week. Over the years she has been photographing Semana Santa, she has gained entrance to behind-the-scenes corners and gotten to know many of the players and planners in the processions and other events. Charlotte loves to share her insights into Semana Santa, and is generous with tips on when and where to stand to get the best views and the best photo shots. She does a marvelous slide show that is the perfect introduction to all that's going on and answers a lot of questions about what it all means.
Tickets for "The Guide to Semana Santa" are on sale at the gallery. Don't miss this event if you want to get the very most out of your experience of Holy Week in San Miguel de Allende. I've seen Charlotte's presentation several times and I can honestly say this is the best introduction to Semana Santa in San Miguel that you could hope for. For those of you not in San Miguel for this wondrous week but who would like to experience it through words and pictures, check out the link below. Mar 29, 2009, Semana Santa--Holy Week in San Miguel de AllendeSemana Santa in San Miguel de Allende is a banquet of processions, devotions, music--sights and sounds and smells--inspiring awe and joy. Here's what to expect... Permalink -- click for full blog post "Semana Santa--Holy Week in San Miguel de Allende" Mar 23, 2009, Spring Begins... and the "Ahhh" Factor Brings it In
Last Thursday, spring was ushered in in the most charming way imaginable, with the traditional children's parade that is one of San Miguel's loveliest Kodak moments. Little kids from many of the towns "kinders," or pre-shcools, began lining up by mid-morning, herded by smiling and gently urgent teachers into a rough line. A group of older kids in uniforms fiddled with their drums and bugles and straigtened their uniforms as leaders of the parade. And then Spring, in the form of lively little two-legged bumblebees, sunflowers, rabbits and skunks, puppies and butterflies and the occasional gypsy or pirate, paraded into San Miguel. I've always thought Mexicans made some of the most beautiful children in the world, and this little parade is the proof. The "Ahhh..." factor was off the charts.
The parade begins at the northern end of Hernandez Macias, winds up Insurgentes, and finally heads to the Jardin. The curbs are lined with smiling parents and proud grandparents, but it was never so crowded you couldn't see the kids and get good shots. Now if only those little bumblebees and butterflies would stand still! The first-day-of-spring-parade usually takes place on the Friday before March 21st, but it's always wise to check in advance. This year, it was on Thursday. The best way to find out the exact date is always to ask a parent of small children or a school teacher. Because if you are in San Miguel de Allende the third week in March, this is definitely one event you don't want to miss. Mar 11, 2009, A Yummy Seasonal TreatI've just been nibbling on a delicious and very traditional San Miguel de Allende treat sold on the street during Lent (Cuaresma). Taquitos de Piloncillo look a bit like empanadas. They are tiny flavored tortillas folded over piloncillo, sealed into a little envelope then deep fried. Piloncillo is that rich, dark brown sugar with a strong molasses taste that comes molded into cones. You can find it in most any Mexican grocery and in the "Latino food" aisles in more and more regular supermarkets in the U.S. Taquitos de Piloncillo are a very traditional Lenten sweet here in San Miguel de Allende. They are sold throughout the season on the street in front of San Juan de Dios church, right in front of the well-known Warren Hardy Spanish school. An article is today's El Correo, a Guanajuato newspaper, describes how Andrea Vazquez makes them. (If you read Spanish, you can see the article at the link below.) At 78, Dona Andrea has been making and selling taquitos de piloncillo for a lot of years. As a child, she helped her mother make the sweet treats. Today, her own daughters help her with the labor-intensive task. She explains that the grains of special corn must be cooked overnight so they're ready to grind in the morning. As she grinds them, she adds cinnamon, anise and ancho chile. When the dough is the right consistency, she adds the piloncillo. Early in the day, the vendors set up their small wood burners on the street to heat the oil for deep frying the taquitos. You'll find several of them sitting on the curb in the street called San Rafael, directly in front of the church. At one peso each (about 7 cents US today), you'll want to get several. Pop them in your mouth fresh and hot and sweet (but not too much so). You'll be glad all over again that you're in San Miguel de Allende during Lent. Mar 11, 2009, Subscribe to SMAtterings... againThis is an update: A couple of days ao, I invited you all to subscribe to SMAtterings, my soon-to-be-launched newsletter about San Miguel de Allende. Unfortunately, at that time I didn't realize the "submit" button on the form was not working. It has now been fixed. It you tried to subscribe and couldn't, please try again at the link below. If you think you did subscribe but never got a confirmation email, then you are not subscribed. Please try again. If you did get the confirmation email and clicked on the link, you're already in and everything's cool. Apologize for the confusion. Even using the best website building tools in the world (SBI!), I still sometimes screw up the code! Got it now, so come on in and join the newsletter party. I've lined up some cool coupons for discounts at businesses in San Miguel. You'll also get special content written just for the newsletter and some insider tips. I hope you'll join us. Permalink -- click for full blog post "Subscribe to SMAtterings... again" Mar 9, 2009, I Join the Ranks of San Miguel de Allende's "Fallen Women"The streets of San Miguel de Allende are famous for the charm and historic character of their ancient cobblestone paving. The Spanish name--bolas de piedra or "balls of stone"--is perhaps a more accurate description of what this antique paving material really is. Another accurate name for these charming and historic rounded stones set into cement is "Gringo traps." And one of them got this gringa this week. There I was, skittering along the street, trying to capture the perfect photo of the "conchero" dancers as they weaved and stomped and bobbed their plumed headdresses to the loud beat of the drums in the street alongside the Jardin. Darting through the crowds angling for the perfect shot, I forgot the cardinal rule of cobblestone walking--"Watch where you put your foot." Sure enough, I stepped on a cobblestone wrong, my foot slid sideways out of my slingback sandal, pain shot up my leg and walking was no longer an option. I had twisted my foot badly and now sport a big whonking bruise on the side, near the instep. I kept telling myself it really was OK, that it didn't really hurt, it didn't really hurt.... But the truth was it really hurt! It is this very danger that has seen San Miguel de Allende sometimes referred to as the "City of Fallen Women." While I did not actually fall to my knees, the result was the same. Let's just say my salsa dancing practice is going to have to wait a couple of weeks. So common is this phenomenon of foreigners, especially women, falling or twisting ankles on the cobblestones of San Miguel that my friends Carol Schmidt and Norma Hair even used it in the title of their popular book, Falling...in Love with San Miguel. Carol fell on a cobblestone her very first day in town (I think) and spent most of that first vacation using crutches and canes. Yuu can read that story and a whole lot more of their adventures during their first year of living in San Miguel on Social Security at the link below. I highly recommend the book as a great introduction to San Miguel. The moral of the story? When you visit San Miguel de Allende, watch your step--literally. A misplaced foot could put the kabosh to your mobility. And that would be a shame, because San Miguel is definitely best enjoyed on foot.
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Combine all the dire stories in the news media about Mexico with the usual slow season in San Miguel de Allende and what do you get? Bargains!
So, just for a change, let's talk about something other than the flu.
For music lovers, a special prize is the upcoming series of three concerts by well-known Mexican cellist Jimena Gimenez Cacho beginning Wednesday, April 29th at 7:30pm at Teatro Santa Ana. She'll offer pieces from opposite ends of the musical spectrum, ranging from the Baroque, with pieces by J.S. Bach, to contemporary works by the Mexican composer Julian Carrillo. 
There's a story I want to share with you. It's about a boy named Erik and a man named Charles. 
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Last night was one of my favorite parts of the traditional Semana Santa-Holy Week observances in San Miguel de Allende. It was Viernes de Dolores, The Friday of Sorrows, also referred to as night of the altars.
The holiest and most awesome period of the San Miguel de Allende calendar is upon us. Semana Santa, or Holy Week, begins next Friday with the beautiful tradition of the altars in homes for Viernes De Dolores, the Friday of Sorrows. It continues through the following week with processions coming thick and fast almost on top of each other and ends with the pure fun of exploding the Judas figures on Easter Sunday afternoon.
This year, she'll be giving the presentation four times on two days, April 2nd and 6th, at 1:30 and 4:40 pm each day. The second presentation on April 6th will be in Spanish. They'll be given at the Galeria Ra Luz at the Hotel Posada San Francisco at the northwest corner of the Jardin.
While the Candelaria plant and flower sale in San Miguel de Allende's Parque Juarez in early February signals the unofficial beginning of spring, it is now official. And we didn't need a calendar to know it.
Thank goodness for digital cameras, or I would have been crying "so many great shots, so little film." If you're a photographer, this parade is likely to add a thousand or so images to your flash card. Great shots are everywhere you turn.