Inside San Miguel...The BlogWelcome to Inside San Miguel... The Blog. This is my way of keeping you up to date. This blog will:
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Jul 1, 2009, A Lovely Piece of Writing--San Miguel and Casita de las Flores
A couple of years ago, when I needed a place to stay in San Miguel just for a couple of days and I was on a budget, I discovered the Casita de las Flores. It was a charming experience. Francoise, the owner, has created a friendly family-like place that feels just a bit like a hostel for grown ups--but with your own room. There are two shared baths and one shared kitchen, plus a common patio garden with hammock, so meeting the other guests is inevitable and friendships flourish. It's the kind of place beloved more by true travelers than by mere tourists. Francoise has recently started a blog and it made me discover she is also a gifted writer. Click on the link below to read her story about moving to San Miguel de Allende, finding her property, and creating this pleasant home-away-from-home for travelers. Jun 20, 2009, El Jardin, San Miguel de Allende's HeartIn San Miguel de Allende, the central plaza is where everything happens. Read about El Jardin, San Miguel de Allende's heart... Permalink -- click for full blog post Jun 2, 2009, At Last! Some Positive Ink for San Miguel de AllendeAll of Mexico has been taking a real beating in the media of late--what with narco gangs followed by the flu scare--and the results are not pretty. Tourism is seriously down all over Mexico, even in San Miguel. So it was a very pleasant surprise to see that Continental Airline's inflight magazine has a nicely upbeat piece about San Miguel in the May issue. The focus is on learning. The author took classes or indivual lessons in pottery, nicho making, Spanish, photography and cooking during her short stay in town. And she clearly loved her time here. She passes her enthusiasm on well, and, unlike so many articles about San Miguel de Allende, she gets the details right. (Well, she did call the Parroquia a cathedral, twice, which it is not; it's a parish church. But we'll forgive her that common mistake.) And I, for one, thank her for coming, thank her for telling the truth, and I hereby pass her article on to all of you to enjoy. Just click on the link below. May 31, 2009, What's the Weather in San Miguel de Allende?Find out more about the weather in San Miguel de Allende—which is just about perfect for most of the year... Permalink -- click for full blog post May 25, 2009, New Restaurants in San Miguel de AllendeNew restaurants have been opening in San Miguel de Allende at an amazing rate. This page will keep you up to date on the newest and best restaurants in San Miguel... Permalink -- click for full blog post May 18, 2009, Bargains Abound Right Now in San Miguel de Allende
In conjunction with the San Miguel Department of Tourism, many hotels in SMA are offering special 2-nights-for-the-price-of-1 mid-week packages to lure tourists to town in this slow time. And the range of options is huge. For instance, at Guadiana Bed & Breakfast, you can now get a double room mid-week for two nights for about US$60. And at the high-end, the luxurious Orient Express Hotel Casa de Sierra Nevada will cost you around $US260 for two nights. That's a real bargain. There are 20 participating hotels on the Tourism Department's website, so you should have no trouble finding one that fits your budget and your style. For a complete list of participating properties, with prices and links to their websites, click on the link below. May 16, 2009, Help Bring The Amazing Race to MexicoTourism is enormously important to the economy of Mexico, and it's taken a really bad hit recently. First, all the blood-and-gore news about narco-violence and exaggerations of dangers to tourists had people afraid to cross the border. And then the H1N1 flu virus picked poor Mexico to break out into the open. People began staying home in droves. Mexico deserves a break, some positive images going out over the airwaves that will make people say. "Hey, let's go see that!" You can help that happen. The Discover Channel's mega-hit "The Amazing Race" is coming to Latin America for the next season, and the producers are asking the audience to choose which country they'll visit. Mexico, with its huge range of typography, climate, and peoples, is the perfect choice. As of this writing, Mexico has 42% of the vote to Colombia's 43%. That can change drastically very quickly. Please cast your vote and help Mexico show its stuff on next season's show. If you're not familiar with the show, you can see a video clip (in Spanish) at The Amazing Race. Then click on the link below to cast your vote. Please. Mexico needs your support. May 15, 2009, A Barbecue Bash for the Fourth of JulyIt's still a few weeks away, but you can start making plans now for a bang-up 4th of July in San Miguel de Allende. And for U.S. citizens feeling a bit homesick on our national holiday, what could be more "4th" than a good old barbeque? Vista Antigua, a gated community at the top of Independencia at the Libramiento, will be the host for the Mexico Invitational El Grande Cookoff. Teams of cooks will go head-to-head for points and trophies in several categories, including best brisket, ribs, sausage, "open" category (which is really wide open--anything that can be cooked on a grill or in a pit), Texas-style chili, beans and margaritas. Oh man, this is making me hungry just writing it! And while you're feeding your face with all that finger-licking stuff, you'll also be helping feed Mexican kids. The event is a benefit for Feed the Hungry and Patronato Pro Ninos, old-time charities in San Miguel that help thousands of Mexican kids every year. Several well-known San Miguel restaurants are expected to field teams of cooks, but anyone is welcome to enter. The variety of tastes and textures should be staggering...and very filling. Mark you calendar...and get the napkins ready. May 7, 2009, SMAtteringsNewsletter for experience-san-miguel-de-allende.com Permalink -- click for full blog post May 6, 2009, June Events in San Miguel de AllendeThough the pace is still slow, in June, events in San Miguel de Allende begins to pick-up for the "little season." The "locos" come out to create their own June madness... Permalink -- click for full blog post May 4, 2009, Bellas Artes in San Miguel de AllendeThe best art school in San Miguel de Allende is Bellas Artes, the Centro Cultural de Bellas Permalink -- click for full blog post May 3, 2009, About Flu Paranoia and Economic Disaster--Here's a Great ReadI've written on this blog recently about the overblown paranoia and fear-mongering among the press concerning the recent outbreak of the H1N1 flu and its effect on Mexico. I've talked a bit about what it's doing to the economy and daily life of San Miguel de Allende. But I haven't done either of those things as well as Jan Baumgartner does in the article at the link below. The piece was written for OpEd.com and I really hope you'll go read it. It mirrors my own feeling exactly... and is brilliantly done. Thank you, Jan. Apr 29, 2009, A Taste of Italy at Cafe Vivoli--on a Budget
If you're in San Miguel right now--and lucky you if you are--and you like good Italian food (who doesn't?), here's an event you won't want to pass on. Tomorrow night, Thursday, April 30th, Cafe Vivoli is offering "A Taste of Italy." Come in between 5 and 7 pm, buy any drink for $50 pesos (~US$4) and indulge in a delicious complimentary buffet of Italian specialties. Part of the same chain as the famous Cafe Vivoli on Sunset Blvd. in West Hollywood, this place really knows Italian. Here's your chance take a virtual trip to Italy for a great price--and give Cafe Vivoli a try if you've never been there. I do recommend it. Cafe Vivoli is located at Hernandez Macias 66, on the east side of the street. For more info call (415) 152-0045 or email donato@vivolicafe.com Apr 28, 2009, Flu Updates - Who Are You Listening To?Among the spate of recent media reports in the U.S. and elsewhere about "swine" flu, many would have you believe that people throughout Mexico are dropping like flies from the coming "pandemic." Dozens dead, hundreds dead, the reports vary but all are alarming. Without minimizing the very real concern about the spread of the disease, I'd like to remind readers that not everything you read in the media, and certainly not everything printed on a blog or passed among friends, is true. I suppose it is human nature to exaggerate, especially when talking about something as dramatic as a potential pandemic. So I went to the World Health Organization website to see what they had to say about levels of infection and deaths. You can see the daily report at the link below, but to summarize: As of Tuesday, April 28th, the U.S. government had reported 64 laboratory confirmed human cases, with no deaths. Mexico had reported 26 confirmed human cases of infection including seven deaths. Other countries had reported a total of 15 cases with no deaths. Due to the lack of Mexican laboratories capable of detecting the virus, samples are being sent to the CDC in the U.S. for analysis. The numbers for Mexico will likely be somewhat higher when all lab tests come back. Compare these figures with the fact that approximately 36,000 people die in the U.S. every year from normal flu infections. We are all watching the news as these figures change daily. Schools all over the country are closed until May 6th, and the Mexico City government has ordered all restaurants and eating establishments in the city to close for dine-in customers. They may only serve take-out orders. But the country is not in total upheaval, as some press pundits would have you believe. Nor are people dying in the streets in every town and village. San Miguel de Allende is relatively unaffected at this point. We'll be watching the most reliable news sources we can find to help us all stay informed, so we can be concerned and vigilant, but not panic. The best advice: read reliable news sources, filter what you hear and read through a mask of common sense and then make your own judgments, uncolored by the unreasonable panic the fear-mongers seem to enjoy spreading. Apr 28, 2009, Flu Precautions Reach San Miguel de AllendeDespite the fact that as of Monday, April 27th, no cases of unusual flu have been reported in or near San Miguel de Allende, we are feeling the effects of the nationwide state of alert and precautions. Today, the Mexican government announced that ALL schools in the whole country, from kindergarten through university, will be closed until May 6th. The Biblioteca Publica in San Miguel has also closed for the same period. One mother in San Miguel reported that her teenage daughter was also told that the kids are to stay at home--not go into the centro or up to the mall. And she was given a LOT of homework to keep her busy. While certainly worrisome, the practical results of the school closing in terms of missed classes are not quite as drastic as they at first might sound. Students would have been off school from this coming Friday through next Tuesday anyway for the Labor Day holidays. Still, the move is proof that the government is taking this health threat very seriously. Apr 27, 2009, Best above all: Dos CasasWhere in San Miguel de Allende can you find the ambiance of an upscale New York restaurant complete with smoked mirrors and linen table service? Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 26, 2009, Guanajuato Health Officials "Alert but Not Alarmed" About Possible Spread of FluThe new outbreak of influenza in Mexico City has people in San Miguel de Allende rightfully concerned. But to date, there is no real cause to be alarmed. According to the state health secretariat, the state government has begun an intensive campaign to search out and detect possible centers of infection, particularly in schools and workplaces, but up until now there have been no school closings or suspensions of public events. The Secretary of Health for the state of Guanajuato, Jorge Armando Aguirre Torres, has announced that there has been NO evidence anywhere in the state of any cases of the swine or viral flu currently affecting Mexico City. In news reported today, Sunday, April 26th in El Correo newspaper, Aguirre goes on to say [translation mine], "We are keeping an exhaustive watch. We're not waiting until people arrive at health centers, but are watching schools and workplaces so that probable cases can be identified in an opportune manner. Because flu is seasonal, when we identify it quickly it can be cured. The important thing is to identify it quickly to save the lives of people affected." He added, "Even though in Guanajuato we have not registered a single case of the mutation of swine and avian flu, we must keep working to maintain that fact. It's a case of being on alert but not alarmed." [Emphasis mine] The State Committee on Health Safety met in extraordinary session this week to determine necessary measures to contain any possible outbreak in the state. After the meeting, they announced that the federal government is expected to send 10 thousand doses of flu vaccine to the state in the next few days. These will be administered to health workers, the population most vulnerable to possible contagion. The U.S. Consular Agent for San Miguel de Allende, Ed Clancy, also posted a "Warden Message" from the U.S. State Department about the outbreak this week, emphasizing that people should follow normal good health habits, including frequent hand-washing, avoiding close contact with sick people and staying home when you are ill. Alsos todat, the U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) updated a notice about H1N1 "swine" influenza and travel to Mexico. The notice does NOT recommend that people avoid travel to Mexico at this time and suggests precautions travelers and U.S. citizen residents in Mexico can take to reduce their risk of infection. The U.S. Embassy in Mexico City will post additional information about the outbreak on the embassy websiteit becomes available. Apr 26, 2009, San Miguel de Allende Heats Up and Slows Down--But Plays OnWe're coming into slow season in San Miguel de Allende. The winter visitors, like good snow-birds everywhere, have flown back north. The heat is building and folks are shopping at Mega and Elektra for floor fans to get through the few weeks of heat. A few restaurants are getting ready to close up shop for the month of May, a time for owners to take their vacations or use the hiatus to refresh and refurbish their premises. But San Miguel never goes completely to sleep anymore. There's still something going on all the time. And late April-early May is no exception. It's just easier to get tickets. Here's a quick look at some of what's coming up. Harold Pinter's dark play about passion and politics, Betrayal, is prepping to take the stage of the Teatro Santa Ana next week. It runs April 30-May 3. Check the theatre for curtain times. Tickets are $150 pesos. At the Atelier Flor Acosta, Fabrizio Viglioni will open an exhibit of photographs of Mexico City "DF" on Thursday, April 30 at 7 pm. Entitled Visiones DF-ectuosas Viglioni's array of stark photos capture the stories, the laughter and the misery, the trash, the dark night, and the absolute overpopulated immensity of the world's largest city. The gallery is located at Tata Nacho #8 in Colonia Guadalupe.
It's a program of extremely difficult music technically. Though written in the 1960s, most of the pieces by Carrillo had never been performed publicly until Jimena Gimenez premiered them in 2006. Tickets for the concerts are $150 pesos. Just more proof that San Miguel de Allende is a feast for culture hounds of any stripe at any time of the year. Come on down! Apr 25, 2009, About San Miguel de AllendeSome fast facts to answer your first questions about San Miguel de Allende—like where is San Miguel, what's the weather like, how do I get there, stuff you need to know.... Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 21, 2009, Vacation in Mexico? Here's the Perfect Weekend VisitAre you planning a vacation in Mexico? Here's how to spend just 36 hours in San Miguel de Allende and have an unforgettable weekend... Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 14, 2009, U.S. Passport Deadline is LoomingFor more than a year now, there's been a lot of confusion about whether or not U.S. citizens need a passport to travel to Mexico. The answer was yes and no--depending on how you were planning to enter the country. After June 1st, there need be no more confusion. The answer, in all circumstances, will be YES. In another two months, travelers crossing the border by car will no longer be able to reenter the U.S. with just a birth certificate and photo ID. A passport will be required. You can get a passport application online at the U.S. Passport Office site. The huge clog-ups of last summer seem to have been mostly avoided this year, but if you're planning a trip to San Miguel de Allende (or anywhere else in Mexico) and are worried about getting a passport in time for your departure, there are a number of private expediting services that will speed the process dramatically for a fee. You can check one of them out at the link below. Apr 12, 2009, San Miguel de Allende as TV commercial Location
In mid-February, a film crew had the area in front of the Jardin in San Miguel de Allende closed off for a day or two while they shot a TV commerical for a new VW model called, I think, the CC. The commercial recently made its debut on YouTube.
Nice car. Nice commercial. Great setting! Apr 12, 2009, Childhood or Adult--the Magic of a Puppet Speaks to All in San Miguel de AllendeNext week, the esplanade in front of the Parroquia church of San Miguel de Allende will be wall-to-wall packed, from the east end to the west, from the Parroquia's iron fence to the Jardin wall, with kids of all ages--including some with gray hair. Some in this massive audience won't even understand the language of the show they are watching. But the voice of a puppet seems to have a language of its own, one that speaks to all ages and all cultures. Next Monday begins the 6th International Puppet Festival of San Miguel--El Festival Internacional de Titeres. And if past festivals are any guide, it will be a pure joy from beginning to end. Nine different puppet companies will travel to San Miguel from Spain and Jalisco, from Mexico City, Michoacan, Morelos, Queretaro and San Luis Potosi. Their puppets will range from simple "sock puppets" pulled over expressive hands to figures made of sticks and string to the elaborate and completely engaging detailed marionettes of Armando Ramirez and El Teatro La Luciernaga. The puppeteers, or titiriteros, cover the whole range of the art of puppetry and even enlarge it with their cutting-edge experimentation. There will be nine performances, running from April 13th through the 19th, in the Jardin, in the auditorium at Bellas Artes and at the Teatro Angela Peralta. And best of all, every one of them will be given free of charge. If you are in San Mgiuel de Allende next week, don't miss this charming, wacky, moving range of performances and the joy of watching the audiences young and old enjoy them too. As the festival's website says, "You are invited to embark on a voyage through time, on board the ship called 'imagination.'" For a complete schedule of performances, click on the Festival's link below. Apr 12, 2009, Lasting Memories... and Friends... of San Miguel de AllendeA charming story showed up in my email this morning and I wanted to share it with you. It's by travel writer/photographer Dennis Jones, and it appeared in the Vail Daily. He describes the purely joyful cacophony of San Miguel de Allende, a pure joy I have felt myself on many occasions. He writes about watching the procession of Our Lord of the Column enter into San Miguel, the piety of the people, the scent of the carpets of herbs. And he writes about the people. He writes. "I have never been to a place where I have made such fast friends. You could say there must be something in the water, except it's all purified.... Whereever I was, after a lecture, in a restaurant or sitting in the Jardin, I met people who were sincerely warm and open. Frequently, deep conversations developed leading to shared meals and more time together. Of all the memories, the people I met will be the most lasting. I couldn't have said it better myself. Do click on the link below to read the whole article. Apr 11, 2009, Subscribe to SMAtterings: What Matters in San Miguel-free newsletterSMAtterings is the newsletter about "What Matters in San Miguel de Allende." Subscribe for free here... Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 10, 2009, May Events in San Miguel de AllendeMay events in San Miguel de Allende are lazy affairs as many of the Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 9, 2009, Good Friday & Easter Church Services-in English-in San MiguelIf you're in San Miguel de Allende for Semana Santa--Holy Week--and would like to attend church services in English, there will be a special bilingual Good Friday service at Cristo, Roca Eterna at 12 noon on Good Friday. The church is right behind El Tunel car wash next to the cable company on Salida a Celaya. The Easter Sunday service there will be at 10:30am. For more English language church services in San Miguel, click on the link below. Permalink -- click for full blog post Apr 8, 2009, A Very Young Photographer
Charles Soberman is an American who spends half of each year in San Miguel de Allende. Last year, he decided to take Erik Jimenez, the 9 1/2-year-old son of his housekeeper, for a shopping outing. Erik was a shy boy, overweight, not doing well in school and with few friends. His self-esteem was non-existent. The two talked and shopped and Erik and Charles became friends. Charles wanted to give Erik something that was uniquely his, something his friends couldn't do, something that would boost his self-esteem. So he gave him a old digital camera, showed him how it worked and sent him off. As Erik returned with his first stiff, awkwardly posed photos, Charles began showing him how to make them better. Erik, it turned out, was a quick and avid learner. Fast forward a couple of months. Erik Jimenez, who will be 10 in July, is a photographer. He has a business card with his name and that precious title on it. And he takes wonderful pictures. This week, Charles Soberman and his wife, Linda, hosted the first exhibit of Erik's work. They presented 18 photographs; some 50 people came to admire them... and to buy them. Many photos were sold, and the money will go towards new photo equipment to feed Erik's growing proficiency.
"Tristeza" (Sadness) "My Grandparents Door" If you'd like to see more of this young man's excellent work, visit the link below. You can even buy one or more prints of his work for only $10 and feed a new and growing talent, a valuable sense of self worth, and a skill that may well become a profession. Apr 6, 2009, El Presidente en San Miguel de AllendeThe Jardin was a-hopping today as the new Casa Allende Museum, birthplace of the town's namesake and independence hero Ignacio Allende, was inaugurated after an extensive renovation. The museum is located right on the corner of the Jardin, facing Cuna de Allende (the very street name means "Allende's Cradle"). The big news buzzing around the square was that President Felipe Calderon himself was in town for the inauguration. The last time the president was in San Miguel was about two years ago, when he participated in the opening of the Hospital General. The Jardin today was positively crawling with soldiers and other security officers to guarantee the president's safety. And there were actually metal detectors set up in the Jardin. At least they didn't completely close down the center of town, as so often happens when an American president goes anywhere. The president met with several community leaders, both Mexican and foreign and gave a speech at the ceremony. He noted the recent naming of San Miguel as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, pointing out it's importance to the country. In his speech, he pointed out that Ignacio Allende was "born in this house, and from here, wrote one of the most beautiful pages of history." In discussing the War for Independence from Spain, he noted that there was clearly a "great talent" behind the design, organization and operation of the "conspiracy for independence. "That talent," he said, "was Allende." For me, the most ringing part of his speech was this passage, when he spoke about next year's bicentennial of Mexican independence: "Friends, 2010 will be a year of jubilation and happiness, in which the pride of being Mexican, the pride of our national history will beat with enormous force in every home, in every school, in every neighborhood, in every public plaza, and especially, this sentiment will beat and be expressed here, in San Miguel de Allende." I think this visit by Calderon is a testament to the growing importance of San Miguel de Allende on the national radar in Mexico. And as the bicentennial of Independence next year grows nearer, San Miguel, along with Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato and Queretaro will loom large on the collective Mexican consciousness as the fragua de independencia, the "forge of independence." It was a proud day to be in San Miguel. Apr 5, 2009, Walking the Streets of San Miguel--the Friday of Sorrows
I love wandering the streets in the evening and admiring all the dozens of beautiful altars people create in their homes, in public spaces and in the dozens of fountains in San Miguel de Allende. There are lovely altars everywhere, scattered throughout the town, but my favorite street is always Calle Barranca. Not only does it sport many altars, some small and charming, some enormous and awe-inspiring; it also brings out the crowds. The street becomes a lovely evening promenade as couples and families stroll along, admiring the ingenuity and piety of their neighbors. They run into friends, chat in the street, stop for the traditional drink or ice cream at some of the homes with the biggest altars. It's an odd combination of religious celebration and family party, and that makes it wholly Mexican. For a more complete discussion of Viernes de Dolores check out the link below. Tomorrow, Palm Sunday begins Holy Week proper in San Miguel--a highlight of the religious year, and a magical spectacle for spectators whether religious or pagan or something in between. I hope many of you are enjoying it. Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 31, 2009, Woolis Kabaan - Mayan Name, Yucatan Food, Nice AmbianceWoolis Kabaan is a brand-new restaurant in San Miguel de Allende(March, 2009). The name is Mayan, which means The World Goes 'Round, and the food is Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 29, 2009, Semana Santa in San Miguel... Here's How to Get the Most Out of It
One of the greatest experts I know on Holy Week in San Miguel de Allende is Charlotte Bell. Her beautiful photography book, Tears From the Crown of Thorns, is a loving and gorgeous depiction of the pageantry, pathos, and glowing moments of the week. Over the years she has been photographing Semana Santa, she has gained entrance to behind-the-scenes corners and gotten to know many of the players and planners in the processions and other events. Charlotte loves to share her insights into Semana Santa, and is generous with tips on when and where to stand to get the best views and the best photo shots. She does a marvelous slide show that is the perfect introduction to all that's going on and answers a lot of questions about what it all means.
Tickets for "The Guide to Semana Santa" are on sale at the gallery. Don't miss this event if you want to get the very most out of your experience of Holy Week in San Miguel de Allende. I've seen Charlotte's presentation several times and I can honestly say this is the best introduction to Semana Santa in San Miguel that you could hope for. For those of you not in San Miguel for this wondrous week but who would like to experience it through words and pictures, check out the link below. Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 29, 2009, Semana Santa--Holy Week in San Miguel de AllendeSemana Santa in San Miguel de Allende is a banquet of processions, devotions, music--sights and sounds and smells--inspiring awe and joy. Here's what to expect... Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 23, 2009, Spring Begins... and the "Ahhh" Factor Brings it In
Last Thursday, spring was ushered in in the most charming way imaginable, with the traditional children's parade that is one of San Miguel's loveliest Kodak moments. Little kids from many of the towns "kinders," or pre-shcools, began lining up by mid-morning, herded by smiling and gently urgent teachers into a rough line. A group of older kids in uniforms fiddled with their drums and bugles and straigtened their uniforms as leaders of the parade. And then Spring, in the form of lively little two-legged bumblebees, sunflowers, rabbits and skunks, puppies and butterflies and the occasional gypsy or pirate, paraded into San Miguel. I've always thought Mexicans made some of the most beautiful children in the world, and this little parade is the proof. The "Ahhh..." factor was off the charts.
The parade begins at the northern end of Hernandez Macias, winds up Insurgentes, and finally heads to the Jardin. The curbs are lined with smiling parents and proud grandparents, but it was never so crowded you couldn't see the kids and get good shots. Now if only those little bumblebees and butterflies would stand still! The first-day-of-spring-parade usually takes place on the Friday before March 21st, but it's always wise to check in advance. This year, it was on Thursday. The best way to find out the exact date is always to ask a parent of small children or a school teacher. Because if you are in San Miguel de Allende the third week in March, this is definitely one event you don't want to miss. Mar 11, 2009, A Yummy Seasonal TreatI've just been nibbling on a delicious and very traditional San Miguel de Allende treat sold on the street during Lent (Cuaresma). Taquitos de Piloncillo look a bit like empanadas. They are tiny flavored tortillas folded over piloncillo, sealed into a little envelope then deep fried. Piloncillo is that rich, dark brown sugar with a strong molasses taste that comes molded into cones. You can find it in most any Mexican grocery and in the "Latino food" aisles in more and more regular supermarkets in the U.S. Taquitos de Piloncillo are a very traditional Lenten sweet here in San Miguel de Allende. They are sold throughout the season on the street in front of San Juan de Dios church, right in front of the well-known Warren Hardy Spanish school. An article is today's El Correo, a Guanajuato newspaper, describes how Andrea Vazquez makes them. (If you read Spanish, you can see the article at the link below.) At 78, Dona Andrea has been making and selling taquitos de piloncillo for a lot of years. As a child, she helped her mother make the sweet treats. Today, her own daughters help her with the labor-intensive task. She explains that the grains of special corn must be cooked overnight so they're ready to grind in the morning. As she grinds them, she adds cinnamon, anise and ancho chile. When the dough is the right consistency, she adds the piloncillo. Early in the day, the vendors set up their small wood burners on the street to heat the oil for deep frying the taquitos. You'll find several of them sitting on the curb in the street called San Rafael, directly in front of the church. At one peso each (about 7 cents US today), you'll want to get several. Pop them in your mouth fresh and hot and sweet (but not too much so). You'll be glad all over again that you're in San Miguel de Allende during Lent. Mar 11, 2009, Subscribe to SMAtterings... againThis is an update: A couple of days ao, I invited you all to subscribe to SMAtterings, my soon-to-be-launched newsletter about San Miguel de Allende. Unfortunately, at that time I didn't realize the "submit" button on the form was not working. It has now been fixed. It you tried to subscribe and couldn't, please try again at the link below. If you think you did subscribe but never got a confirmation email, then you are not subscribed. Please try again. If you did get the confirmation email and clicked on the link, you're already in and everything's cool. Apologize for the confusion. Even using the best website building tools in the world (SBI!), I still sometimes screw up the code! Got it now, so come on in and join the newsletter party. I've lined up some cool coupons for discounts at businesses in San Miguel. You'll also get special content written just for the newsletter and some insider tips. I hope you'll join us. Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 9, 2009, I Join the Ranks of San Miguel de Allende's "Fallen Women"The streets of San Miguel de Allende are famous for the charm and historic character of their ancient cobblestone paving. The Spanish name--bolas de piedra or "balls of stone"--is perhaps a more accurate description of what this antique paving material really is. Another accurate name for these charming and historic rounded stones set into cement is "Gringo traps." And one of them got this gringa this week. There I was, skittering along the street, trying to capture the perfect photo of the "conchero" dancers as they weaved and stomped and bobbed their plumed headdresses to the loud beat of the drums in the street alongside the Jardin. Darting through the crowds angling for the perfect shot, I forgot the cardinal rule of cobblestone walking--"Watch where you put your foot." Sure enough, I stepped on a cobblestone wrong, my foot slid sideways out of my slingback sandal, pain shot up my leg and walking was no longer an option. I had twisted my foot badly and now sport a big whonking bruise on the side, near the instep. I kept telling myself it really was OK, that it didn't really hurt, it didn't really hurt.... But the truth was it really hurt! It is this very danger that has seen San Miguel de Allende sometimes referred to as the "City of Fallen Women." While I did not actually fall to my knees, the result was the same. Let's just say my salsa dancing practice is going to have to wait a couple of weeks. So common is this phenomenon of foreigners, especially women, falling or twisting ankles on the cobblestones of San Miguel that my friends Carol Schmidt and Norma Hair even used it in the title of their popular book, Falling...in Love with San Miguel. Carol fell on a cobblestone her very first day in town (I think) and spent most of that first vacation using crutches and canes. Yuu can read that story and a whole lot more of their adventures during their first year of living in San Miguel on Social Security at the link below. I highly recommend the book as a great introduction to San Miguel. The moral of the story? When you visit San Miguel de Allende, watch your step--literally. A misplaced foot could put the kabosh to your mobility. And that would be a shame, because San Miguel is definitely best enjoyed on foot. Mar 4, 2009, The Sanctuary of Atotonilco -- Mexico's "Sistine Chapel"Only 7 miles from San Miguel de Allende, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco is a cornucopia of frescoes, gilded altars and Permalink -- click for full blog post Mar 1, 2009, Toller Cranston in San Miguel de AllendeLong famous as the greatest men's figure skater of the 20th Century, Toller Cranston always defined himself first as "a painter who skates." Here's a look at his home, his life and his painting... Permalink -- click for full blog post Feb 28, 2009, Coming Soon to an Inbox Near You...
NOTE: There seems to be a temporary glitch in the opt-in box for the newsletter on the page at the link below. Translate that as--it doesn't work. While I wrestle with the html coding to fix it, you can subscribe to SMAtterings by sending me your email address through the form on the "Contact Us" button over there on the Nav Bar at the left. <----
Each issue will have updates about what's new on this site, news about upcoming events in San Miguel de Allende, special "Insiders' Secrets" to make your stay in San Miguel more magical and fun...and a few surprises. I'm negotiating right now with some restaurant and shop owners, convincing them to give me some special printable coupons offering discounts and deals available only to subscribers. You can sign up at the link below. You'll get an opt-in confirmation email, just to guarantee that you really want it, and the first issue should be in your inbox in the next couple of weeks. And don't worry. I promise NEVER to sell, trade or give away your precious email address. Don't you just hate it when that happens? I hate spam as much as you do. That's why you'll never get any from me or as a result of giving me your email address. So come on in. Join SMAtterings. Because SMA is worth knowing more about. Permalink -- click for full blog post Feb 27, 2009, David Godinez, San Miguel de Allende Jewelry ArtistDavid Godinez is an artist , a jeweler, and a silversmith in San Miguel de Allende... Permalink -- click for full blog post Feb 26, 2009, Starbucks in San Miguel de AllendeI'm sitting in Starbucks, sipping a vanilla latte and watching the world go by. Seated here and there half-a-dozen other patrons are clicking away on their laptops. Others are reading the newspaper, talking on cell phones, chatting with friends. At the next table, a handsome young couple is gazing lovingly into each other's eyes. It's a common enough site across the US and Canada. But I'm in San Miguel de Allende. When Starbucks opened here last year, sited in a colonial building right on the corner of the Jardin, there was an uproar--particularly from the gringo population. "They're ruining San Miguel," they opined, loudly and often. "They're turning it into an American mall with a Spanish accent." Many threatened to boycott this transplanted slice of Americana. But surprise! The sky has not fallen. Every other cafe in town has not gone out of business. San Miguel de Allende is still a Mexican town. And so are most of the patrons filling the tables at Starbucks. A large part of that original uproar had to do with outrage at American conglomerates taking over Mexico. But the facts are a little different. Every Starbuck you see in Mexico is actually Mexican owned, Mexican managed and aimed at a Mexican clientele. And they are hugely successful. Starbucks Mexico is a subsidiary of the Mexican corporation ALSEA, which markets several foreign brands and franchises in Mexico. Starbucks USA has only an 18% stake in Starbucks, Mexico. ALSEA first brought the brand here in 2002. At the end of 2008, there were 258 Starbucks cafes in Mexico. They will add 14 more this year, a much slower rate of growth due to the global recession. The company is taking clear aim at an important and growing demographic in Mexico--young, upwardly mobile Mexicans who love their laptops and their cell phones as much as their counterparts in the rest of the world. And sipping at Starbucks is a growing status symbol for them. The San Miguel Starbucks is comfortable and familiar to any latte-sipping addict from north of the border--comfortable stuffed chairs, marble tables, photos of Old San Miguel on the walls, and an instantly recognizable menu. The colonial beauty of the building has been retained, with it's high beamed ceiling and Mexican colors, and the patio courtyard is popular. There is free Wi-Fi throughout the store. There are a lot of other cafes in San Miguel I like better--small, family-owned places with a stronger Mexican accent. But I certainly won't object to meeting a friend for a frappuccino on the Starbucks patio. San Miguel de Allende can easily survive Starbucks. Feb 23, 2009, 12 Step Meetings in San Miguel de AllendeThere's an active 12-step community in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with nearly two dozen English language 12-step meetings in San Miguel every week: AA, ACOA, CODA, Al-Anon. Here's the schedule... Permalink -- click for full blog post Feb 21, 2009, High Season in Full Swing in San Miguel de AllendeThe winter season has really heated up with a calendar chock-a-block full of things to do. This morning, I started my day with the "Unhappy Hour" breakfast special at Cafe Monet--wholewheat pancakes and a cafe latte for $30 pesos (a shade over two bucks). You can also order oatmeal, a baguette or a couple of other choices. Delicious small breakfast in a lovely atmosphere. Then I headed to the Jardin to pick up the new issue of Atencion San Miguel, the weekly English-language newspaper. I'll read the stories later, but first I pulled out the "Que Pasa" events calendar and started planning out my week. This is where the hard part comes in. There are just too many wonderful events to take everything in. Films, plays, lectures, concerts (jazz, guitar and classical), a dance party, art walks, gallery openings, the annual writers conference, literary readings, astronomy events, a crafts fair, book presentations, the House & Garden tour. And that's not all of them! Then there are the classes--everything from yoga to watercolor painting, cooking, salsa dancing, life drawing, astrology, "facial exercise" (huh?), a real estate seminar, and more. Today, I'm going to head up to the Arts & Crafts Fair that's part of the First Annual Iguana Arts Festival. It should be interesting. Then at 5, my old friends Steve and Cathi House, the extremely talented and well-known architects of House + House, are having a book signing for their new book, Houses in the Sun. After that, I think I'll wander over to Calle Mesones for an "Art Walk." Several shops and galleries along a two-plus block stretch will be having special openings and offerings. Not sure how I'll spend the evening, but it's bound to be interesting. After all, this is San Miguel! Feb 21, 2009, Jacarandas in Bloom
Every day, more and more of the beautiful mauve clouds are taking over the hillsides and gardens. Soon, they'll be everywhere. Luckily for me, the job of sweeping up the fallen blossoms does not fall to my lot! Feb 19, 2009, Come on Down! The Sunshine's Fine...For all of you still socked into deep winter in colder parts of the globe, it was in the 80s today in San Miguel de Allende. A few people here are expressing mild alarm that the warm weather has arrived so early, fearing that the hot weather of May might be really uncomfortable this year. For me, I am simply rejoicing in the brilliant sunshine and T-shirt weather. And the jacarandas are out! For me, the jacarandas are right up there with the bougainvilleas as a floral symbol of San Miguel itself. For many, the first dusky mauve blossoms are eagerly awaited with an enthusiasm and anticipation akin the arrival of the cherry blossoms in Japan or Washington D.C. And now they are here. Soon, the hillsides will be fully splotched with purple puffballs. Tomorrow, I'll post a photo of some of the first jacaranda blossoms of the year. Feb 15, 2009, Great Documentary Films and Their Filmmakers in San Miguel de AllendeSan Miguel has been developing a nice reputation as a center for good film. Thanks to the short film festival, "Expresion en Corto," which takes place every year in Guanajuato and San Miguel, our town is now on a lot of lists of places to see cutting-edge, experimental and innovative films, both short and long. A new organization is aiming to increase that reputation even more. REEL DOCS was started by local filmmaker Caren Cross and Jennifer Posner to present excellent, thought-provoking documentary films along with their filmmakers. As she participated in international film festivals herself, showing her documentary Lost & Found in Mexico about expat life in San Miguel, Cross realized that there were so many excellent films winning awards and recognition in these festivals but with no distribution channels to make them available to a wider audience. She wants to remedy that by bringing these films to the intelligent audiences of San Miguel. The series kicked off last month to great success with the films Moja Moja, by Sam Oliver, and The Cats of Mirikitani, by Linda Hattendorf. The filmmakers were present for discussions following the films and performance were sold out, even with extra screenings added. So they are being brought back for two more showings at the Biblioteca's Teatro Santa Ana. The Cats of Mirikitani will screen Tuesday, February 17th at 5pm, and MOJA MOJA will be shown Friday, February 20th at 3pm. It's filmmaker, Sam Oliver, will be there again for a Q&A session following his film. Tickets are available at the Teatro Santa Ana box office for only 50 pesos (about US$3.50).
And mark your calendars for the next round of films on February 28th. Match & Marry, by Suzannah Warlick, and Feb 15, 2009, Got Your Passport Yet?One of the commonest questions I hear from U.S. citizens who have never been to San Miguel, or anywhere else in Mexico, is "Do I need a passport to travel to Mexico?" A simple enough question, it would seem. But for the last couple of years, the answer has been "Yes and No." Confusing. Yes, U.S. citizens do need a passport when traveling into Mexico by air or sea, such as a cruise ship. But if you're entering by land, the answer for the last couple of years has been, "Not yet." That "yet" is almost here. As of June 1, you will no longer be allowed to cross the border with just a birth certificate and government-issued photo ID, like a drivers' license. All U.S. citizens entering Mexico by air, sea or land, must have a valid U.S. passport. So if you're driving, walking, biking or being wheeled across in a wheelbarrow, and you don't yet have your passport, you need to apply--now. The rules were supposed to take effect more than a year ago, but the overwhelming demand caused such a backlog and long delays in processing by the U.S. Passport Office, that the date was pushed back. The passport office seems to have sorted out most of the problems causing the delays and demand has flattened. In 2007, they processed and issued more than 18.5 million passports. This year, they are expecting about 12 million applications and claim they're ready. It's a lot easier to get a U.S. passport than it used to be. You can print out an application online then mail it to a passport processing center. You should normally have your passport back in about six weeks. For an extra fee, you can get an expedited passport in about three weeks.
Even easier and much faster is to use a passport expediting service. If you're desperate--your air tickets says you're leaving tomorrow, your passport says it expired yesterday and you ain't goin' nowhere--you can get your new or renewed passport back in as little as 24 hours. You'll pay a premium for the fastest expedited passport With these companies you apply online, they hand-carry your documents to a processing center (using their insider knowledge to get it to one that's least likely to be busy) then ship it back to you. U.S. citizens who only travel to Mexico, Canada and the Caribbean can also take advantage of the new credit-card sized passport cards being issued by the State Department. They're cheaper than book passports, but can't be used outside that specific area. To learn more about getting an expedited passport, or to apply, click on the link below. Feb 15, 2009, San Miguel Videos -- a New Way to "See" San MiguelThere have been some wonderful videos about San Miguel de Allende produced in the last year or two--most notably Caren Cross's award-winning Lost & Found in Mexico. Video is a wonderful way to "see" San Miguel before you come here. And these videos can offer unique perspectives and insights about this beautiful, engaging and sometimes quirky town. I've just added a page to the site that will feature some of the best of the San Miguel videos so you don't miss out on the experience. Check out the link below to see what we've got so far. More videos will be added whenever we find one we think you'll enjoy. Permalink -- click for full blog post Feb 15, 2009, San Miguel de Allende is Going to the Dogs... 2nd Annual CANmiguelada Next Week.Pups are primping and dog owners are readying themselves for the 2nd Annual CANmiguelada next week. The name for this canine event is a play on "sanmiguelada," the once popular but now defunct San Miguel version of the running of the bulls in Pamplona, Spain. Last year's CANmiguelada was such fun that it has an eager group of mutts and their best friends panting for a repeat. Many of you probably watched the prestigious Westminster Dog Show last week. That's not what the CANmiguelada is about... not unless that show secretly included a fun and festive list of games and contests including Ugliest Dog, Most Disobedient Dog and Loudest Bark. There will be prizes for costumes, tricks and races, trainers to teach obedience, and an obstacle course to test agility. Other fun goings-on will include a raffle, food (for man and beast), dog accessories for sale, picnic lunches, kids activities, vets giving out advice and a doggy adopt-a-thon. Entrance to the event is free, and the classes are only 20 pesos (less than two bucks). The CANmiguelada is sponsored by Dra. Alma Ruth Miranda Valenzuela of PetVet (#27 Sterling Dickinson), and SAMM--Save a Mexican Mutt. It should be a really fun day for families and pets alike. CANmiguelada, Sunday, February 22nd from 10 am to 4 pm, on the ground of the Hotel REal de Minas, on the south edge of town on the road to Celaya. Questions? Call PetVet at (415) 152 2341 or 152 4276
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Combine all the dire stories in the news media about Mexico with the usual slow season in San Miguel de Allende and what do you get? Bargains!
So, just for a change, let's talk about something other than the flu.
For music lovers, a special prize is the upcoming series of three concerts by well-known Mexican cellist Jimena Gimenez Cacho beginning Wednesday, April 29th at 7:30pm at Teatro Santa Ana. She'll offer pieces from opposite ends of the musical spectrum, ranging from the Baroque, with pieces by J.S. Bach, to contemporary works by the Mexican composer Julian Carrillo. 
There's a story I want to share with you. It's about a boy named Erik and a man named Charles. 
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Last night was one of my favorite parts of the traditional Semana Santa-Holy Week observances in San Miguel de Allende. It was Viernes de Dolores, The Friday of Sorrows, also referred to as night of the altars.
The holiest and most awesome period of the San Miguel de Allende calendar is upon us. Semana Santa, or Holy Week, begins next Friday with the beautiful tradition of the altars in homes for Viernes De Dolores, the Friday of Sorrows. It continues through the following week with processions coming thick and fast almost on top of each other and ends with the pure fun of exploding the Judas figures on Easter Sunday afternoon.
This year, she'll be giving the presentation four times on two days, April 2nd and 6th, at 1:30 and 4:40 pm each day. The second presentation on April 6th will be in Spanish. They'll be given at the Galeria Ra Luz at the Hotel Posada San Francisco at the northwest corner of the Jardin.
While the Candelaria plant and flower sale in San Miguel de Allende's Parque Juarez in early February signals the unofficial beginning of spring, it is now official. And we didn't need a calendar to know it.
Thank goodness for digital cameras, or I would have been crying "so many great shots, so little film." If you're a photographer, this parade is likely to add a thousand or so images to your flash card. Great shots are everywhere you turn.
After a slight delay, here's the promised photo of the first jacaranda blossoms of the season. This is a sign that spring has well and truly arrived.